Our Heather Grey Wool Flannel and Navy Blue Flannel pants are made from a wool flannel woven in Italy by the famous house Vitale Barberis .
Here are the 7 stages of manufacturing this prestigious wool:
Step 1: The Top
The first step is to clean the raw wool, either by carding or combing. Carding involves passing the wool through cards and extracting it in the form of ribbons. Combing, on the other hand, makes the fibers parallel and removes the shorter ones.
The product resulting from this essential step is called the “Top”.
Step 2: Spinning
The tops are then combed several times to obtain an ideal yarn diameter for spinning. Spinning involves stretching and twisting the strands.
Step 3: Dyeing
There are 3 dyeing techniques mainly used by houses.
1. In “Top”
The most common technique in large houses, it requires a lot of time, especially for drying.
2. In reel
Faster, this technique is used for samples, small productions or special orders.
3. In piece
It involves dipping the wool into a colored bath and spinning it on a reel. The fabric is removed from the bath when the desired shade is obtained.
Step 4: Warping
This involves checking the position of the wires using high-tech machines that use lasers to simultaneously check hundreds of coils and each of their wires.
Step 5: Weaving
The transverse threads must pass over or under the vertical threads in a precise pattern. In modern looms, each thread passes through a sort of large needle eye, each one controlled by the loom's electronic brain so that it can be lifted at the right time. A wide, sturdy reed beats each weft.
Step 6: Re-entry
In the second step of verification, the women manually detect any possible defects. This step is carried out twice, the first time immediately after weaving and the second time after the first finishing phase.
Step 7: Finishing
The fabric is immersed in a bath of hot soapy water and then subjected to fulling, which gives it its felted, more substantial and heavier finish. Several techniques are then used to give the fabric its final appearance.
Find all our flannels on our e-shop: lepantalon.com
