Let 's get back to the question everyone is asking: should you hem or turn up your pants?
We'll take the time to answer this question. But first, we invite you to take a look at our glossary .
So, hem or cuff?
It all depends on your style, your body shape, and your type of pants. Choosing between a hem or a cuff means thinking about the finish of your pants. This creates a seamless transition between them and your shoes. The fit of pants is an art that relies on three elements: the ankle opening, the pleats, and the type of finish.
To begin with, as we explained in the glossary, there are two ways to make a proper cuff: with a sewing machine or by hand. As a reminder: when making a cuff, you turn the fabric outwards. Obviously, if the cuff is made by hand, it will be much more approximate and less precise in terms of size. But it allows you to change the length of the pants whenever you want. And above all, to adjust them according to your desires.
If you choose to do it by machine, however, it is recommended to make it between 2.5 and 5 cm wide. If you don't know, opt for the standard size of 4 cm. It's up to you to decide what style you want to give your cuff. Some enthusiasts have fun making cuffs up to 10 cm on selvedge jeans. It's a style, it's up to you to decide!
Little tip: If you want your backhand to stay in place over time, we recommend fixing it with a quick iron.
Let's move on to the hem, when we turn the fabric inward. It is generally sewn to prevent a fabric from fraying and thus create a cleaner and more robust finish. The goal is to sew 3 layers together. Indeed, pants are designed with 2 layers, so when we hem, we have 4 layers. For an aesthetic and durable side, it is recommended to sew 3 layers together. The suit hem is sewn with an invisible stitch so as not to damage the aesthetics of the suit. You can also hem chinos or jeans. Favor a hem between 1 and 2.5 cm wide. There are videos or tutorials on the Internet that will explain in detail how to easily hem without going to a seamstress.
Of course, if your trousers are too expensive and/or you don't trust yourself, you can always find a tailor, a friend, a mother or a grandmother to make a hem that meets your expectations.
Quick tip: If you're still undecided between a cuff and a hem, make a 2.5 cm hem. You can easily turn it into a cuff later.
Tip #2: If you have selvedge jeans, opt for a hem made by a specialist with a chain stitch. This will give you more style with a little rope effect.
Short story: If you're interested, you can read "English Chic" by James Darwen. It explains everything a man must have in his wardrobe to achieve English style. It includes anecdotes about clothing.
For our topic, we learned that the lapel has existed since the time of George V (19th century). He is said to have teased one of his visitors by making a remark about his trouser cuff. Indeed, at that time lapels were worn by people walking in muddy terrain, and George V's palace was a clean and dry place, so there was no point in wearing a lapel.
James Darwen also takes us to the First World War. Soldiers complained about not having sewn hems or cuffs, forcing them to constantly sew their cuffs by hand.
To go even further…
Instant Mode: Lately, especially at Paris Fashion Week, you may have noticed the return of Normcore. It's a contraction of the words "normal" and "hardcore." The goal of this trend is to promote the "no look" and "blend in." It was born in 2014 in the United States thanks to journalist Fiona Duncan. This style is in opposition to the tendency to want to differentiate oneself from others. The most emblematic icon of this trend was Steve Jobs. He always wore his black turtleneck, his faded jeans without cuffs or hems, and the most ordinary sneakers. Here are some examples of Normcore looks seen this year at Paris Fashion Week:
Coming from the brands (from left to right) Clothing – Balenciaga – Y/Project, these looks are characteristic of this style and we can see that they abandon the trouser legs. Like all trends, this one will change and give birth to new ones like “Sportcore” or “Dadcore”. We are curious to follow its evolution and to see if the hem and cuff will remain timeless.
If you want to better understand how your pants should fit according to your body shape, we recommend this article .
Now you know where you're going!
